“Get dressed right and they will remember you”

At the beginning of the new calendar, the Latin author Marcus Fabius Quintilian wrote that “the garment reveals the man” and the history of clothing, as a sign of the development of society, proves the truth of his claim. Many authors in different eras have related formulations, united by the logic that appearance is one of the elements of forming a first impression, which is why it should be given attention and care. The way we dress, the colors and accessories we choose send a message to those we meet and talk to. These messages are related to our social status, professional and institutional affiliation, which is why it is important that they be interpreted only positively and give the right signals. In a professional environment, and especially in diplomatic environments, there are a number of rules and restrictions that must be known and followed in order to build a correct image not only for ourselves, but also for the institution we represent. Many are convinced that appearance and clothing in themselves are not the object of attention, but this is only true when they are suitable. “Dress wrong and they will remember the garment. Dress properly and remember you” is an expression of Coco Chanel whose applicability goes far beyond the world of fashion.

In the business environment, fashion is not a leading factor in choosing clothing. It is transitory unlike the style that is eternal. In this sense, it is good to strive to form our own style and to remain faithful to it in our professional path. Thus, the probability of making mistakes is significantly lower than when following fleeting fashion trends, which are often not suitable for application in a business environment.

Each situation requires a specific way of dressing or has its own rules for clothing. When you go to a high-level or international conference, you choose a more formal outfit than what you would wear to work meetings or an evening gathering with your family. Theater and concert halls, ballrooms, garden party, etc. require a certain way of dressing, which is important to know and understand. The state and its tradition, the season, the venue, the hour, etc. are also important.

Costume – the right choice for every situation

Gentlemen have a universal and correct choice of clothing, and that is the suit. When choosing a suit, do not be tempted by bold fashion solutions, but make sure that its cut fits you well and feels comfortable. Stick to conservative colors and fabrics: the dark blue color is best, followed by black and dark gray. These colors are preferred for all situations and are mandatory for evening events. The suit in brown color is a good choice for living rooms, informal formats and especially for sports, extra-urban clothing. It is accepted that when it is necessary to turn on the lighting in a room, the suit must be black, blue or gray. Of course, it is possible to choose a fabric with a light stripe, but the main colors are kept the same. Regardless of the color, the fabric of the suit is necessarily matte, not shiny or shiny. Recommended fabrics are wool or cotton. It may be mixed with synthetic threads, but avoid completely polyester fabrics, as artificial fabrics “do not breathe”, which means they keep colder or warmer, depending on the season, and create conditions for sweating and the appearance of unpleasant Smell.

To have a beautiful silhouette of the jacket, its pockets should not be filled with bulky or heavy objects. Also, when you are standing upright, its buttons must be fastened according to the following principle – with three buttons, you must fasten the middle one, the upper one can be fastened sometimes, and the lower one – never; with two buttons, you necessarily fasten the upper, and the lower one remains open; With one button, it must be fastened. In this way, your silhouette is businesslike and elegant, without being too tight as if in a uniform. When sitting, the button or buttons are unfastened.

The trousers should have a classic cut and not excessively emphasize the curves of the body. Its length should be such that the front of the leg makes one fold from the fabric above the shoe, and the back falls to the middle of the heel of the shoe. The trouser pockets should also not be filled with objects that disturb the silhouette and cut of the suit. In most cultures, it is not a manifestation of good taste.

Part of the suit, in addition to the jacket and trousers, could also be the vest. When you wear it, it frees you from the obligation to fasten the jacket, because it itself is always fastened completely except for the lowest button. Depending on the fabric and pattern, the vest can be part of the formal wear or be a suitable element of an informal look.

Shirt – long sleeve only

The next element of gentlemen’s clothing is the shirt. The classic shirt has a clean cut, monochromatic and without distinctive marks. It is the main light element in the silhouette of gentlemen, which is why its choice is very important. The difference between formal and unofficial clothing is mainly related to this element of clothing. The business environment shirt can be monochromatic, as well as in a discreet stripe or check. The direction and size of the stripes determine how elegant it is. Bright stripes and large carriages are more sporty and are not suitable for the office. The simpler and finer the stripe or checkered, the more elegant the shirt, with the most elegant shirt being the one-color shirt, with a smooth relief of the fabric, and the official one is also in white color. Classic and wide collar shirts are suitable for pairing with a suit and tie, while a button-up collar gives a more sporty character to the shirt and is more suitable for wearing without a tie for casual, informal use. Under the jacket, the shirt must have long sleeves that extend under the sleeves of the jacket at most two or three millimeters. It’s just as good to see from the collar of the shirt above that of the jacket when you’re being watched in profile. The cuffs that are turned are fastened with cuffs or silk knots, depending on the occasion. The top button of the shirt that remains under the tie knot is always buttoned. It is good to choose the size of the shirt in such a way that the fastened collar does not cause discomfort and does not fit tightly to the neck. Keep in mind that you will spend long hours in this form and your comfort is of priority importance.

The tie as an expression of individual style

The stylish tie is silky, monochromatic, with a discreet pattern or with a relief in the fabric of the fabric itself. Her choice is very important, because it is the color accent in the clothing of the gentlemen. The width of the tie is consistent with that of the lapel of the jacket: for a wider lapel – a wider tie, for a narrower one – narrower. It should be tied so that its tip covers the buckle of the trouser belt – neither shorter nor longer. It is good to escape too large nodes. Loosening the knot in order to ensure comfort is not permissible.

If you like bow ties, wear them carefully and depending on the situation. In a work environment or in more conservative societies, it is not the best idea.

Many gentlemen like to carry a handkerchief in the small outer pocket of the jacket. It can be a color accent in your overall look, but you need to match it as color and pattern with your shirt and tie. One of the good options is that it is in a color close to that of the shirt or to the main tone of the tie. In no case should it be the same as the tie. It sticks delicately as a light edge from the pocket. Any other, more artistic layouts or color solutions are suitable for an informal environment.

The dark color of the socks

Always wear dark socks in a work environment. The color can match the color of the pants. Socks should be long enough (almost to the knee) so that part of the calf is not exposed when sitting. Turning socks into an accent in clothing is not a good idea, so colorful, sports, short socks or those with pictures are suitable for an environment that has nothing to do with business and formal communication.

The exquisite style of shoes

The foot, in a suitable sock, is shod in leather, dark shoes, necessarily with laces that are always shiny and clean. Thin-soled shoes are preferable, regardless of the season. Any bold solutions related to patterns or metal elements on shoes should be avoided. Sandals and moccasins are also inadmissible, as they do not fit into the notions of a business environment.

Accessories

Accessories are minimized. Wedding ring, watch and cuffs are the maximum of permissible jewelry in a business environment. Rings, bracelets or chains are unacceptable in almost all situations and should be avoided. The “right” watch has a thin dial and a conservative and non-sporty design. The style and color of the strap should be in harmony with the clothing and other accessories. The leather strap is suitable for a suit, and metal straps are not recommended in a business environment. Keep in mind that the watch is not suitable for many formal events when time metering is not the concern of attendees. The belt is dark, preferably in the color and material of the shoes (leather, suede, etc.). Avoid large buckles, eyelets or other coarse metal elements on the belt. A belt is not worn with a vest or with a double-breasted jacket. A great option is the harmony between shoes, a belt, a watch strap and possibly a bag, if one is needed. The same applies to the colors of metal elements in clothing – belt buckle, watch dial, cuffs. If you’re not a belt lover but prefer the suspenders, remember that the two accessories are never worn at the same time. If your pants have a buckle, then the belt is the right choice. Often, custom-made suits do not have buckles, as they stand right on the body. With this type of pants, the only choice would be the use of suspenders.

In connection with the recommendations not to carry voluminous items in the pockets of the trousers and jacket, it is good to pay attention to the bag. It is necessarily leather, combined as a color with the other elements of clothing. Its size must be sufficient to accommodate a folder of documents. Small bags, as well as those that are worn on the shoulder, are not acceptable in business environments.

Hats are also an accessory that gentlemen can include in their wardrobe. In individual cultures and traditions, there are specific types of hats, some of which already have mostly historical value. The cylinder, which is part of the overall vision of gentlemen wearing a tailcoat, deserves attention. The other types of fabric or leather hats can be used in the cold part of the year and only when participating in outdoor events. Straw or sports hats do not end up in gentlemen’s wardrobe for a business environment. Do not forget that historically hats were, in addition to being a functional object, a sign of social prestige, so in business circles to this day, hats have such a purpose and should have such an appearance.

Gloves are an excellent addition to gentlemen’s clothing in the cold part of the year. They are leather and dark and go with the shoes and the coat. When you shake hands and greet someone, keep in mind that the gloves come off, so you need to choose a model and size that does not create difficulties when removing, to avoid a situation facing you with a hand outstretched and you to “fight” yes Take the glove off your hand.

In the winter wardrobe of gentlemen, there must be a coat that is made of fabric and is dark in color. Any options of leather or other sports outerwear are not suitable for a business and formal environment. The length of the coat depends on your height and silhouette. The length of the coat must be such that it covers the jacket. A scarf is worn with the coat in the official format and is worn crosswise so that it is visible with the coat closed together with the knot of the tie. For not so formal occasions, a woolen fabric scarf is a good solution. A knitted fabric scarf is more suitable for informal and sports situations.

All this gives a very stable basis for how gentlemen should choose and combine the individual elements of their vision in order to look professional, to inspire confidence and to contribute both to the authority of the institution they represent and to their own.

Messages Hidden in Dress Code

There are also many situations that require a specific type of dressing that is “hidden” in the so-called “dress code”. What are the expectations for us when going to a given event is recorded in the invitation we receive for participation. As a guest, we must follow the relevant instructions strictly. If there is a text on the invitation whose wording does not give you a clear answer to what form you should go in, it is best to call your hosts or the designated contact protocol officer to get clarity. The traditional and established wordings in most places in the world are as follows:

• Unofficial clothing (Informal / Tenue de Ville) is suitable for everyday life, snacks and events until lunch. For gentlemen, it consists of a dark suit, a shirt with a long sleeve and a tie. The shirt doesn’t have to be white.
• Formal clothing (Business / Dark Suit) is suitable for formal meetings, formal morning events, evening cocktails and dinners. Gentlemen must be dressed in a dark two-piece suit (single- or double-breasted jacket and trousers) or in three parts (single-breasted jacket, single-breasted or double-breasted vest, trousers). The shirt is white and pairs with a discreet tie.
• Tuxedo (Black Tie / Cravate Noir) – for formal dinners, diplomatic dinners. Gentlemen should wear a black jacket with silk lapels or a scarf collar, a tuxedo shirt, a black bow tie or tie, black trousers with silk bands on the outside of the legs, a silk belt or Vest, silk stockings and dark shoes.
• Frac (White Tie / Cravate Blanche) – for many formal dinners, royal ceremonies and balls, this is the most formal look. The men are dressed in a black tailcoat with silk lapels worn unbuttoned. The trousers are also black, with silk bands on the outside of the legs, paired with a white shirt, white vest, white bow tie or tie and dark shoes. In winter, it can be combined with a black coat and a white silk scarf. The cylinder is advisable and has historically been a mandatory element of this vision.
• Jacket (Morning dress / La Jaquette) – for official events during the day. Since the tux is only evening wear, at many formal events that take place during the daylight hours, the following clothing requirements for men’s clothing are indicated – a tailcoat jacket, with pointed lapels and single- or double-breasted buttoned Vest. The pants are gray or gray and black stripe. The shirt is white or in another light tone, with cuffs. The tie is a must.

In conclusion, I would also like to recall the Bulgarian proverb, which claims that “they welcome and send by the mind”. And doesn’t everyone want to be welcomed well – a matter of just proper clothing.

The text was prepared by Bilyana Decheva-Guncheva (1972 – 2022), an employee at the Bulgarian Diplomatic Institute since its foundation, lecturer in the courses on protocol, etiquette and ceremonial, as well as a co-author of a study aid on “Protocol and Etiquette in the Context of the European Union’.